I need to buy a rug pad.
I've been home from Morocco for a few days, working off all the tagines, organizing the 4,573 photos I took, and finding homes for all the beautiful souvenirs I picked up, including a handwoven Berber carpet that’s going to look SO good in our living room once I get that rug pad.
I’ll save the full deep-dive for later, but I wanted to share a few moments from the trip I keep coming back to—and the one thing we almost talked ourselves out of doing.
The Unexpected Highlight
Dar Ahlam was the hotel I was most looking forward to, and it did not disappoint. They have a unique and refreshing take on hospitality that impressed us all.
One aspect of that is that there’s no dining room at the hotel; instead, they set up private tables around the property, so you eat in a different place for each meal. For dinner on our last evening, they said, “We’d like to surprise you with a special sunset dinner somewhere with a beautiful view.”
They drove us into the desert, and not only was the setting completely magical, but the food was also some of the best we had on the trip. Spectacular.
I won't hesitate to recommend Dar Ahlam to all of my clients who have the time—though with direct flights to Ouarzazate from Europe, time may not even be an issue anymore.
The Thing We Almost Skipped
In Marrakesh, the Saadian Tombs were one of the first stops on our itinerary, but our guide said he recommended other sites instead. He explained that the tombs can be extremely crowded, with hour-long lines to see inside the mausoleums. Trusting him, we said, “Okay, that sounds good.”
But a couple of days later, when we had seen most of the other major sites, we said, “Let’s do the tombs”—and they turned out to be a highlight.
While skipping them altogether would have been a mistake, once we were there and understood the layout of the site, his guidance made total sense. If we had been there at the same time as a bunch of big groups (which is often the case), we wouldn’t have seen anything. But because we adjusted the timing, we had the place almost entirely to ourselves and could fully enjoy and appreciate the tombs’ incredible architecture and craftsmanship.
The lesson: timing makes all the difference, and going with a knowledgeable guide who knows the best and worst times to visit a place (whether it be for avoiding crowds, or the best photography light, or something special that only happens on certain days) can completely transform your experience.
The Honest Reality Check
Exploring some of the more remote—and, in my opinion, most worthwhile—parts of Morocco requires some long drives. While there are high-speed trains between a few of the major cities (and more routes coming ahead of the 2030 World Cup), unless you’re chartering a helicopter, expect to spend a lot of time in the car. Getting from Fez to the desert, for example, takes around 8 hours—it was a long day.
However, the landscapes along the way are absolutely beautiful, plus we made sure to include interesting stops to break up the drives. And the reward is visiting places that many travelers never see, with more local connection and more of a sense of adventure and discovery.
Key Takeaways
Before this trip, my impression of Morocco had always been that it’s one of those destinations that checks all the boxes—and it absolutely lived up to that. There’s rich culture and history, a variety of landscapes and experiences, delicious food, truly luxurious hotel options, and friendly, welcoming people. I’m already planning a return visit (and thinking about taking a small group of curious travelers with me—interested?).
Having a great guide and driver throughout the trip made the whole thing so much easier and more enjoyable, because we could just relax and have fun together without worrying about how to navigate the souks, or whether this shop offered better quality or prices than that one, or reading road signs in Arabic and Tifinagh, the geometric, futuristic-looking—yet ancient!—Berber alphabet.
Plus, we had someone to give us all the cultural and historical information we wanted, and answer our multitude of questions (thanks for putting up with us, Nabil!)
In other words, Reader, Morocco completely delivers, but good planning, pacing, and guiding make all the difference—and now I know even better exactly how to do that.
If it’s been on your radar, reply and tell me what’s been holding you back. I’d love to help you figure out if it’s the right fit.
P.S. Next week I’ll break down all the different ways to do Morocco—I guarantee there’s a version that’s right for you, no matter your travel style. Stay tuned!